Roofs and Attics

Attic Inspection

Attic Inspection

An attic is an unconditioned space between the roof and the ceiling or walls of the building’s inhabited rooms. In a small house with a pitched roof, the attic is usually partially or fully accessible. In a house with a low-slope roof, it may be inaccessible or virtually non-existent.

Roof Leaks: Look for signs of and monitor water leakage from the roof above and try to locate the source. This may be difficult to do beneath built-up roofs or loosely laid and mechanically fastened single-ply roofs, since water may travel horizontally between layers of roofing materials. The key is looking for any signs at all and tracing it. Moisture meters or infrared cameras may be able to help in this regard. Phone a friendly home inspector.

Attic Ventilation: Signs of inadequate ventilation are rusting nails (in roof sheathing, soffits, and drywall ceilings), wet or rotted roof sheathing, and excessive heat buildup which makes measuring attic temperatures a integral part of a good home inspection in Halifax NS. Adequate attic ventilation can be measured by calculating the ratio of the free area of all vents to the floor area. The free area of vents is defined as their clear, open area. If a vent has an insect screen, its free area is reduced by half. The free vent area-to-floor area ratio should be 1 to 150. If the calculated ratio is less, consider adding ventilation, especially if you’re in a hot and humid climate.

If the attic also contains an occupied space, check that the ventilation from the unconditioned, unoccupied areas at the eaves is continuous to the gable or ridge vents. Also check that the free area of eave vents is approximately equal to the free area of ridge or gable vents. If ventilation appears to be inadequate and additional vents cannot be added economically, consider adding mechanical ventilation.

Vents and Birds: Make sure ventilation openings are clear of dirt and debris. At larger ventilation openings on a building’s exterior and where louvered grilles are used, such as at gables, check for the presence of 1-½-inch-square 14- or 16-gauge aluminum mesh bird screen. If there is none or it is in poor condition, consider having new bird screen installed.

Plumbing Stacks and Exhaust Ducts: All plumbing stacks should continue through the roof and should not terminate in the attic. The stack pipes should not be loose, broken or damaged. Exhaust ducts should not be kinked, broken or damaged. They should not terminate in the attic but should continue through the roof, gable or wall.

 

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector or share my schedule now link and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me with your constructive criticism.

Windows and Doors

Egress Windows & Fire Safety

Egress Windows for Fire Safety

Egress: Basements and every sleeping room should have at least one operable emergency escape and rescue opening that opens directly onto a public street, public alley, yard or court. This standard is required because many deaths and injuries happen when occupants are asleep at the time of a house fire and the normal means of escape (through doors) are typically blocked.

Ideally, The sill height of the emergency escape and rescue opening should not be more than 44 inches above the floor. If the window has a sill height below ground level, a window well should be provided. The window well should have a horizontal area of at least 9 square feet, with a minimum horizontal projection and width of 36 inches (with the exception of a ladder encroachment into the required dimension). If an emergency escape window is located under a porch or deck, the porch or deck should allow the window to be fully opened and the escape path should be at least 3 feet high.

Egress Windows or Doors for Bedrooms – Minimum Requirements according to NBC 2015
1) Except where the suite is sprinklered, each bedroom or combination bedroom shall have at least one outside window or exterior door openable from the inside without the use of keys, tools or special knowledge and without the removal of sashes or hardware.
2) The window referred to must provide an unobstructed opening of not less than 0.35 m2 in area with no dimension less than 380 mm and maintain the required opening during an emergency without the need for additional support.
3) Where a window required opens into a window well, a clearance of not less than 760 mm shall be provided in front of the window.
4) Where the sash of a egress window swings towards the window well, the operation of the sash shall not reduce the clearance in a manner that
would restrict escape in an emergency.
5) Where a protective enclosure is installed over the window well, the enclosure shall be openable from the inside without the use of keys,tools or special knowledge of the opening mechanism.

You can’t be prepared to act in an emergency if you don’t have a plan and everybody knows what that plan is. Panic and fear can spread as quickly as a fire, so map out an escape route and a meeting place outdoors, and involve even the youngest family members so that everyone can work as a unit to make a safe escape.

 

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector or share my schedule now link and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me with your constructive criticism.

Egress Window
Egress Window and fire safety
Windows and Doors

Window Maintenance

Window Maintenance

Condition: Window frames, sills and sashes should be monitored because the interior condition and hardware of windows change over time. Frame materials can include plastic,vinyl, aluminum, steel, wood, plastic-clad wood, and metal-clad (steel or aluminum) wood. Window types include double-hung, single-hung, casement, horizontal sliding, projected out or awning, projected in, and fixed. In addition to these, there are jalousies, which are glass louvers on an aluminum or steel frame.

At older sashes, the glazing compound or putty around the glass panels should be monitored carefully, since this is a vulnerable part of the window and its repair is time-consuming. Check the panels in steel or aluminum sashes for signs of deterioration, such as hardened sealant. Check metal sashes for weep holes that have been blocked by paint, sealant or dirt. Weep holes are usually easy to clean. Storm windows and doors should be monitored for operation, weathertightness, overall condition, and fit.

Weatherstripping: Window and door weatherstripping is generally one of three types: metal; foam plastic; or plastic stripping. Each type should have a good fit. Check the metal for dents, bends and straightness. Check foam plastic for resiliency and plastic stripping for brittleness and cracks. Make sure the weatherstripping is securely held in place.

Shutters & Awnings: Periodically check the shutters’ operation and observe their condition and fit. Shutters close to the ground can be examined from the ground. Shutters out of reach from the ground should be examined from inside the house.

Monitor the condition of your awnings. The attachment to the exterior wall can become loose. Oftentimes, an attachment device in the mortar joint of a brick wall can be easily pulled or slid outward. Some windows and glazed exterior doors have awnings over them for decoration, sun control, and protection from the weather.

 

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector or share my schedule now link and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me with your constructive criticism.

Landscaping and Drainage

Retaining Walls

Retaining Walls

Retaining Walls
If possible, weep holes and related drains should be assessed following a heavy rain to make sure they are working properly. If they are not discharging water, the drains should be cleaned out and observed again in the next rain. Retaining walls more than 2 feet high should be backed with drainage material, such as gravel. There should be drains at the bottom of the drainage material that should discharge the water either at the end of the wall or through pipes. These drains and the drainage material behind the wall relieve the pressure of groundwater on the wall. Failure to drain could be remedied by excavating behind the wall, replacing the drainage material and damaged drainage piping, and backfilling. In all but the driest climates, improper drainage of water from behind a retaining wall can cause the wall to fail.

Look for movement in your retaining walls. Bowing (vertical bulges), sweeping (horizontal bulges), and cracking in retaining walls can be caused by water pressure (or hydrostatic pressure). Bulging can also be a result of inadequate strength to resist the load of the earth behind the wall. Bowing and sweeping failures may be correctable if found early enough and if the cause is poor drainage.

There are other types of failures of retaining walls. Failure by over-turning (leaning from the top) or sliding may be caused by inadequate wall strength. In addition, water behind a wall can create unstable earth, especially in clay soils, and contribute to sliding. Retaining walls also fail due to settlement and heaving. Settlement occurs whenever filled earth below the wall compacts soon after the wall is built, or when wet earth caused by poor drainage dries out and soil consolidates. In cold climates, poor drainage contributes to failure by creating heaving from frozen ground. Both overturning and sliding earth may be stabilized and sometimes corrected if the amount of movement is not extreme. Settling may be corrected on small, low walls of concrete or masonry, and heaving may be controlled by proper drainage. Significant failure of any kind usually requires rebuilding or replacing all or part of a wall. Consult a qualified professional when major repairs or corrections are needed.

 

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector or share my schedule now link and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me

Rooms and Interior

Laundry and Utility Rooms

Laundry and Utility Rooms

Laundry Room: Watch for leaks and kinks developing at plumbing connections to the washing machine. Water can overflow from the top or bottom if the machine is overloaded with a load that’s too big, or if it is resting on an uneven surface. If the washer is above another living space, consider installing a drain or washer pan for any accidental leaks.

Protect the electrical or natural gas connections to the dryer and ensure that they are not disturbed or accidentally dislodged from their connections.

A gas dryer vent that passes through walls or combustible materials must be made of metal. The length of a dryer exhaust ensures that its blower will be able to push sufficient air volume to take away the laundry’s damp air and lint. The maximum length of the exhaust hose should not be greater than 25 feet from the dryer to the termination at the wall or roof. The length can be increased only when the make and model of the dryer are known.

Inspect the dryer venting to make sure it is not clogged or restricted, which will help the unit operate efficiently and normally, as well as prevent the unit’s motor from overheating and failing. A clogged or restricted vent hose may also lead to an accidental fire caused by the ignition of built-up debris.

The clothes dryer exhaust poses a different problem than other exhaust systems because the air is damp and carries lint. Ensure that the vent exhausts to the outside and not to the attic, crawlspace, or attached garage because the wooden structural members of the house could be affected over time. The exhaust vent’s termination should have a back-draft damper installed to prevent cold air, rain, snow, rodents, and birds from entering the vent. As part of every home inspection in Halifax, we always advise that the vent termination should not have a screen on it, as this can trap lint and other debris and pose a fire hazard. Routine monitor for clogging and clean as needed.

Furnace Room: Rooms or closets containing combustion or fuel-burning equipment or appliances should not be located off a bedroom in a single-family residence (and must be in a publicly accessible area in a multi-family building). Serviceable or replaceable components should always be accessible. Avoid blocking the path or access with storage items. Flammable items or items denatured by heat should not be in close proximity with furnaces or boilers as these equipment emit significant heat during operation.

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector or share my schedule now link and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me

Landscaping and Drainage

Flood Zones Nova Scotia

Welcome to the Homeowner’s Newsletter! Bi-weekly, you’ll find plenty of useful information for keeping your house in great condition so that you can enjoy it for years to come. Preserve your investment—and keep your family safe and healthy—by maintaining your home using the following tips.

PREVENTING MOISTURE INTRUSION II

Flood Zones Nova Scotia

Check with local authorities to determine if your home is in a flood-risk zone. If it is, check with local building officials. Higher standards than those set by national agencies have been adopted by many communities.

The NSCC(Nova Scotia Community College) and AGRG(Applied Geomatics Research Group) have developed a web tool that can predict coastal flooding in Nova Scotia down to the metre.

Link below to access the tool.
http://agrgims.cogs.nscc.ca/CoastalFlooding/map/

Link below to access documentation on how to use the tool.
http://agrgims.cogs.nscc.ca/CoastalFlooding/docs/UserDocumentation_final.pdf

Improperly designed grading and drainage may aggravate flood hazards to buildings and cause runoff, soil erosion and sedimentation in the zones of lower flood risk. In these locations, local agencies may regulate building elevations above street or sewer levels.

Floodplain maps help to identify areas that may be at risk of flooding during severe storms. Flood maps are critical tools for informing communities about their flood risk and supporting flood management discussions that involve the public.

Providing communities with floodplain maps that accurately reflect flood hazards can help people make informed decisions about flood and emergency preparedness such as evacuation plans, flood-proofing property measures and insurance needs.

More Resources.

Government of Canada Emergency Preparedness Guide
https://www.getprepared.gc.ca/cnt/rsrcs/pblctns/yprprdnssgd/index-en.aspx

Insurance Bureau of Canada – Water Disaster, Know What’s Covered
http://www.ibc.ca/on/disaster/water

Flood Maps – All of Canada
http://floodsmartcanada.ca/floodplain-maps/

Nova Scotia Flood Event Database 1992 to 2015
http://nsfloodhistory.management.dal.ca/

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector or share my schedule now link and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me

Landscaping and Drainage

How To Prevent Moisture Intrusion

Welcome to the Homeowner’s Newsletter! Bi-weekly, you’ll find plenty of useful information for keeping your house in great condition so that you can enjoy it for years to come. Preserve your investment—and keep your family safe and healthy—by maintaining your home using the following tips.

PREVENTING MOISTURE INTRUSION I

Monitor the Exterior 

Planters:  Check any planting beds adjacent to the foundation of your house because planters are built in a way that traps water, which may infiltrate hidden areas of your home. The structure around the planting beds acts like a dam and traps water. Flower planters should never be installed up against a house’s exterior wall.

Puddles:  Puddles and areas of standing water are not good. The ground surface beneath decks, porches and other parts of a house that are supported by posts or cantilevered structures should be checked, especially if you have a sprinkler system. The ground should not have any low-lying areas but should be sloped so that water will not collect and puddle there. Settled backfill allows water to collect next to the foundation wall and penetrate the house’s foundation.

Gutters & Downspouts:  Downspouts may need adjustment. Water from the roof reaches the ground through gutters and downspouts or by flowing directly off roof edges. Because downspouts create concentrated sources of water in the landscape, where they discharge is important. Downspouts should not discharge where water will flow directly onto or over a walkway, driveway or stairs. The downspouts on a hillside home should discharge on the downhill-side of the building. The force of water leaving a downspout is sometimes great enough to damage the adjacent ground, so some protection at grade, such as a splash block or a paved drainage chute, is needed. In urban areas, it is better to drain downspouts to an underground storm water drainage system, if there is one, or underground to discharge at a lower grade away from buildings. Water that flows directly off a roof lacking gutters and downspouts can cause damage below. Accordingly, some provision in the landscaping may be needed, such as a gravel bed or paved drainage way.

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me

Windows and Doors

Stairs Maintenance Checklist

Welcome to the Homeowner’s Newsletter! Bi-weekly, you’ll find plenty of useful information for keeping your house in great condition so that you can enjoy it for years to come. Preserve your investment—and keep your family safe and healthy—by maintaining your home using the following tips.

Stairs Maintenance
Structural Integrity:  All stairs must be kept structurally sound. Don’t forget to examine the basement stairs.  Check the area where they meet the floor and where they are attached to the floor joists above. Make sure attachments, fasteners and all visible portions look nice and feel sturdy.

Stair Width and Clearance:  Stairways should have a minimum headroom of 6 feet and 8 inches, and width of 3 feet.

Treads and Risers:  The riser of a stair is the height of the step.  The tread is the step’s depth. Riser heights and tread depths should be as uniform as possible. All treads should be level and secure.  As a guide, stairs in new homes must have a maximum riser height of 7-3/4 inches and a minimum tread depth of 10 inches.  The maximum difference in height for risers and depth for treads should not exceed 3/8-inch.

Handrails and Guardrails:  You can check a railing’s stability and its fastenings by shaking it vigorously. Handrails are normally required to be 34 to 38 inches above the stair nosing on at least one side of all stairways having three or more risers. Guardrails are required on open sides of stairways and should have intermediate rails that do not allow the passage of a sphere 4 inches in diameter.

Lighting:  All interior and exterior stairways should have a means to illuminate the stairs, including landings and treads. Interior stairways should have a light located at each landing, except where a light is installed directly over each stairway section. Public stair and hallway lights in multi-family buildings should be operable from centralized controls.

Smoke Detectors:  In addition to having them installed in each bedroom or in hallways adjacent to each bedroom, smoke detectors should be installed above stairways and hallways. They should be located on or near the ceiling, near the heads of stairs, and away from corners. Periodically check the operation of all smoke detectors by pushing their test buttons.

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me

Windows and Doors

Door Maintenance Checklist

Welcome to the Homeowner’s Newsletter! Bi-weekly, you’ll find plenty of useful information for keeping your house in great condition so that you can enjoy it for years to come. Preserve your investment—and keep your family safe and healthy—by maintaining your home using the following tips.

Interior Doors: Monitor the condition of your home’s doors and door frames, including the interior of entrance doors and storm doors. Check their hardware for finish, wear, and proper functioning. Sticking doors or out-of-square frames may indicate house settlement, which is normal. Pocket doors and sliding doors need to be checked for stiffness, out of rail and safety guides. It may be necessary to lubricate the rollers or change them out if they become stiff.

Exterior Doors: Exterior doors should be checked often for their condition, operation, and the functionality of their hardware. Most Door types in Nova Scotia include hinged, and single and double doors made of wood, steel, aluminum, and plastic with and without glazing. Monitor wood and plastic doors that are not protected from the weather. These doors should be rated for exterior use. Some homes use glass-framed doors of fixed and operable panels that have wood, vinyl-covered wood, and aluminum frames. Check the tracks of these sliding doors for dents, breaks and straightness. Any compromise of these protective panels would lead to water penetration and deterioration of the wood underneath. Any of these should be repaired promptly where observed.

Doors should also be monitored for the exterior condition of their frames and sills. Check doors that are not protected from the weather for the presence of essential flashing at the head commonly called Z-flashing (A protective metal or vinyl material designed to shed water away from the door opening, sills and jambs). Over time, the interior condition and hardware of exterior doors can wear out or fail. Here in Nova Scotia, we experience a lot of wind-driven rain. These rains can usually beat the eaves, porch roofing and other overhangs designed to protect exterior doors. If you notice leaks, water marks or stains on exterior door finishing on the inside during wind-driven rains, you most likely do not have a functional door header flashing and would need to get a professional to install one.

Garage Doors: Garage doors should be monitored for operation, weathertightness, overall condition, and fit. Garage doors are typically made of wood, hardboard on a wood frame, steel, fiberglass on a steel frame, and aluminum. Garage doors come with glazed panes in a wide variety of styles and now even have entry or access doors built into them (isn’t that cool!). Wood and hardboard can rot, hardboard can crack and split, steel can rust, fiberglass can deteriorate from ultraviolet light, and aluminum can dent. Keeping an eye on all these periodically is the key to keeping your investment in great condition.

Garage doors with motors should be periodically tested using each of the operators on the system, such as key-lock switch or combination lock keypad, where control must be accessible on the exterior remote electrical switch, radio signal switch, or photo-electric control switch. Check the operation for smoothness, quietness, speed of operation, and safety. Check for the presence and proper operation of the door safety-reversing device for safety of children and pets. Look at the exposed parts of the installation for loose connections, rust, and bent or damaged pieces. Also test the emergency manual release operation of the garage door. This is the red lever hanging approximately six feet from the ground. This is used to operate a garage door when the motor fails, there is none or no power. Making sure that this manual release lever operates the garage door fully is important. If this is not the case, consult with a garage door expert.

Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me

 

Ventilation and Moisture Control

Proper Bathroom Venting System

Welcome to our Homeowner’s Newsletter!  Bi-weekly, you’ll find plenty of useful information for keeping your house in great condition so that you can enjoy it for years to come. Preserve your investment and keep your family safe and healthy by maintaining your home using the following tips.

The Bathroom Vent System Bathroom ventilation systems are designed to exhaust odors and damp air to the home’s exterior. A typical system consists of a ceiling fan unit connected to a duct that terminates at the roof. Ventilation systems should be installed in all bathrooms, including those with windows, since windows will not be opened during the winter in cold climates. Fan Function The fan may be controlled in one of several ways. Most are controlled by a conventional wall switch. A timer switch may be mounted on the wall. A wall-mounted humidistat can be pre-set to turn the fan on and off based on different levels of relative humidity. It’s not always easy to tell whether the bathroom vent fan is operating as it should. Newer fans may be very quiet but work just fine. Older fans may be very noisy or very quiet. If an older fan is quiet, it may not be working well. Bathroom ventilation fans should be periodically checked for dust buildup, which can impede air flow. Particles of moisture-laden animal dander and lint are also attracted to the fan because of its static charge. Homeowners should regularly clean dirty fan covers to prevent this kind of buildup.

Defects The following conditions indicate insufficient ventilation in the bathroom: Stains on the bathroom walls and/or ceiling; Corrosion of metal parts of the vent system; Visible mold on the walls and/or ceiling; Peeling paint or wallpaper; Frost on the interior of the bathroom window; High indoor humidity; and/or Improper duct termination.

Duct Termination The most common defect related to the bathroom’s ventilation system observed while conducting home inspections in Halifax, Dartmouth, Bedford and all of HRM is improper termination of the duct. Vents must terminate at the home’s exterior. The most common improper terminations locations are: Mid-level in the attic. These are easy to spot; beneath the insulation in the attic. The duct may terminate beneath the insulation or there may be no duct installed; and under attic vents. The duct must terminate at the home’s exterior. Improperly terminated ventilation systems may appear to work fine from inside the bathroom, so the homeowner or inspector may have to look in the attic or on the roof. Sometimes, poorly installed ducts will loosen or become disconnected at joints or connections. Ducts that leak or terminate in the attic can cause problems from condensation. Warm, moisture-laden air will condense on cold attic framing, insulation and other materials. This condition has the potential to cause health and/or decay problems from mold, or damage to building materials, such as drywall. Moisture buildup also reduces the effectiveness of thermal insulation. Mold growth is another undesirable consequence of improperly vented damp air. Even though mold growth may take place primarily in the attic and basement/crawlspace, mold spores can be sucked into the living area of a home by low air pressure, which is usually created by the expulsion of household air from exhaust fans in bathrooms and kitchens, and from clothes dryers and heating equipment. Improper Ventilation Ventilation ducts must be made from appropriate materials and oriented effectively in order to ensure that damp air is properly exhausted. Ventilation ducts must: Terminate outdoors. Ducts should never terminate within the building envelope; contain a screen or louvered (angled) slats at its termination to prevent bird, rodent and insect entry; Be as short and straight as possible and avoid turns. Longer ducts allow more time for vapor to condense and also force the exhaust fan to work harder; Be insulated, especially in cooler climates. Cold ducts encourage condensation; Protrude at least several inches from the roof; Be equipped with a roof termination cap that protects the duct from the elements; and Be installed according to the manufacturer’s recommendations.

The following tips are also helpful.

Ventilation ducts should: Be made from inflexible metal, PVC, or other rigid material. Unlike dryer exhaust vents, they should not droop; and Have smooth interiors. Ridges will encourage vapor to condense, allowing water to back-flow into the exhaust fan or leak through joints onto vulnerable surfaces.

Above all else, a bathroom ventilation fan should be connected to a duct capable of venting water vapor and odors to the outdoors. Mold growth within the bathroom or attic is a clear indication of improper ventilation that must be corrected in order to avoid structural decay and respiratory health issues for family members. If you are in doubt on any of these and would rather have a professional check things out for you, your best bet is to hire a certified and qualified professional Home Inspector in Halifax

“Success is the result of perfection, hard work, learning from failure, loyalty, and persistence – Colin Powell. Do what you love and love what you do!”

 

A humble request

If you think that I did a good job inspecting your home, please mention me to anyone you know who will need a home inspector and write me a testimonial. If there’s any reason you would hesitate to recommend me, please contact me.